When Christina Kelley, team leader for the US National Greco-Roman Wrestling squad, first arrived in Tehran for the 2014 World Cup of Greco-Roman wrestling in May, she covered herself in a head to toe black robe, as though bound for Saudi Arabia. Upon arrival the 43-year-old Minnesota native discovered a society passionate to its core about wrestling, and also deeply convinced she had packed the wrong clothes. The conservative garb helped Kelley attend a professional wrestling match inside Iran’s wrestling sports complex, the first woman since the 1979 Iranian revolution to have that privilege, but she also describes what she calls a “Pretty Woman” outing where Iranian friends corrected her assumption about what passed for acceptable glamour in modern Tehran.
Many American men have joined the ranks of sports ambassador throughout the years of Iran-US animosity, bridging cultural ties between two societies who are as devoted to sport as their politicians are to misunderstanding one another. But Kelley—who goes by the nickname "Kiki— is the first woman to serve in this role, and she talks to IranWire about getting cheered by a stadium full of Iranian wrestling fans and a trip that changed her mind about Iran forever.
What were your conceptions about Iran before your trip?
Although I didn't fear for my safety, my assumptions were that I'd keep relatively quiet, keep my eyes lowered, not smile too much, and just generally stay in the background. As an American woman flying into Tehran alone at 1:20am, I did have a brief moment of panic. Of course all my expectations were dashed immediately upon my arrival. Apparently I looked more conservative than most Iranian women when I arrived at the airport, which caused a delay in figuring out who I was. But once I was identified, I was whisked through security and warmly welcomed by several laughing Iranian-born coaches.
How would you describe Iran's relationship to the sport of wrestling?
There is no way to adequately describe the passion Iranians have for wrestling until you experience it. It's akin to Americans at an NCAA Final Four basketball game. Or the Stanley Cup for hockey, or even the Super Bowl. And throw in first row center seats at a U2 concert.
You received a great deal of attention and ultimately became a media darling in the Iranian press because of the conservative clothing you chose to wear while in Iran. What did Iranian men and women think about your style of dress?
My conservative choice of dress blew Iranian minds, according to my Iranian translator. I remember the first question in my very first Iranian press interview was, "Why are you wearing that?" But I doubt I would have been interviewed that day at all by ISNA, and maybe not allowed entrance into the House of Wrestling otherwise. It just felt obvious to me according to how I was raised that I should show cultural respect. Some Iranians that I developed close relationships with kept joking that I looked like the fourth wife of a sheikh. Those friends eventually took me to what they called “Rodeo Drive” for two new "normal Tehrani” outfits after my official duties were done. I will wear the outfits here in Minnesota once fall arrives; it was like I had a “Pretty Woman” moment in Tehran!
What were the impressions of the American wrestlers during the trip?
Our guys knew how huge wrestling is in Iran and were told by coaches that wrestlers in general are rock stars there, but I doubt any of them really believed it until they experienced it. But even before the World Cup in Tehran started, we were just wandering around near my hotel and were invited into a store to pick out whatever we wanted. That floored all of us, because that would never happen in the United States. And it wasn’t an anomaly, it was just the start of Iranian generosity and hospitality, which evidently runs deep in the Persian psyche.
In a recent radio interview you described American wrestler Robbie Smith as being the homecoming king of the tournament, can you elaborate on that?
Robert “Robbie” Smith, our heavyweight wrestler, was by far the hit of the entire American wrestling contingent. Robbie’s rapport with the Iranian spectators was extraordinary. He was initially losing his match until the Iranian drummer got him pumped up and interacting with the crowd, who were cheering and screaming, “Robbie! Robbie!” Our wrestling federation president, Jim Ravannack, ran down to the crowd and handed out t-shirts to Iranian fans. The entire stadium was riveted by the spectacle of Robbie embracing the drummer after his win, and then running around the arena with the drummer holding an Iranian flag someone had thrown to them. It really was extraordinary.
While in Tehran you were able to attend an open session of Parliament and you also visited the old Parliament building. As someone who has worked for their state’s national senator’s election campaign, what was your impression of being able to visit parliament?
One of the bigger surprises of my entire trip full of surprises was being invited to visit Parliament. As a history buff addicted to current events, to be at a session of the Iranian Parliament was just surreal. The Iranian press covered my visit and to top it all off, the official historian of the Iranian Parliament gave me a private tour of the old parliament building, which actually looks very much like the American Independence Hall in Philadelphia. At the end the historian personally picked a rose from the official rose garden and gave it to me, which I immediately tucked behind my ear. I felt incredibly blessed to have had that experience.
It seems as though you really connected with your hosts as well as other Iranians that you met. Do you think you helped counter Iranian misconceptions of Americans?
I felt so welcomed and at ease in Iran, and as a consequence, have formed close friendships with many people I met there. Although it was strange for me to hear, I was told by these new friends that I was very different from what they expected of an American. So I guess both sides had misconceptions about the other that were unfounded. They truly seemed surprised that I'd be polite, kind, respectful, and tolerant—words used by my Iranian friends to describe me. I would describe them the same way but include incredibly generous and hospitable.
What does the future hold for the relationship between Iranian and American wrestling federations?
We were able to cement an agreement between the two federations to exchange youth wrestlers for training camps. This agreement was formally presented by Iranian Wrestling Federation President Rasoul Khadem at the closing FILA dinner. We hope other wrestling federations will sign on to this agreement in the spirit of sports diplomacy and goodwill among nations.
Did you feel any historic weight as a representative of the United States?
It wasn't until I held that placard representing America and marched around the wrestling mat that my knees started to shake, and thankfully they were covered! That crowd of thousands of men could easily have jeered, or at best remained silent, but they didn't—they stood and applauded. Later during a match the crowd cheered and called my name: "Kiki-Kiki." At that moment an Iranian man suggested kindly that I stand and face the crowd. I thought maybe it was a Farsi word I just didn't know, but when it became obvious that they were actually calling my name, I first ducked, and then slowly lifted my head, and sure enough, they clapped louder. They really were cheering for me, the lone American woman standing in that arena! So I nodded and waved, tears welling. That moment is the Iran I will forever hold in my heart.
Do you envision yourself visiting Iran again in the future?
I envision visiting my friends in Iran many times over the years, and having them visit me here. I hope.
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